An Old Favorite Rediscovered-Mayonaise

     Everyone can enjoy the pleasure of eating flavor-rich food with a modest amount of preparation. We do not have to settle for merely fueling our bodies with boring calories, we can instead delight our taste buds and also save money.

     Creating exciting and tasty food does not require a lot of time laboring over complex recipes that require a myriad of exotic spices. Science tells us that our taste buds can not discern more than three spices at a time. Our goal, as thrifty gourmands, is to quickly and easily bring out every ounce of natural flavor from our food and not bury these flavors under too many spices.
     Starting with fresh, natural ingredients that are simply prepared, we will add fresh made sauces or condiments that bring out the food’s flavors. We want to draw out the natural flavors of a steak to fill our mouths with its succulent, fatty juices; we want to savor the delicate flavors of fish and seafood. The juices of a simply grilled sirloin steak, without any other seasonings, will explode in our mouths with creamy richness by serving it with just a small pat of real butter. A squeeze of fresh lemon juice on broiled fish adds zest to it. A spoonful of clarified butter brings out the nutty tastes of grilled shrimp. Freshly chopped parsley creates a whole new taste dimension when sprinkled on warm pasta with plain marinara sauce or pasta tossed with olive oil and garlic. These are just some of the easy ways to add new life to basic food.
     Freshly made mayonnaise is one example of how a simple condiment can elevate the taste of a plain dish to new heights. Two years ago while visiting Valencia, Spain I made a wonderful discovery. Tucked away in a little restaurant, the name of which I never knew, I discovered sauce mayonnaise. Here, smooth, pale white sauce mayonnaise was served over deep fried, golden brown potatoes and drizzled with a pink, hot sauce (Patatas Brava). The mayonnaise was rich and creamy with hints of sweet vinegar and lemon juice. It changed a simple plate of deep fried potatoes into a visually colorful feast and a mouth watering delight. I have tried numerous recipes to reproduce the mayonnaise from Valencia and have settled on this one.

Sauce Mayonnaise
     Mayonnaise itself is simply an emulsion of raw egg and vegetable oil, flavored with vinegar, salt, and citrus juice. The end result is a thick, velvety sauce that adds elegance to very simple foods; such as the fried potatoes, steamed vegetables and more. The possibilities are endless and limited only by our willingness to try something new and different with our food. Before we begin to make sauce mayonnaise I must note that if for any reason eating raw eggs will cause physical harm, stop here. This is not the recipe for you.
     Sauce mayonnaise is made by forcing the eggs to absorb the vegetable oil. This absorption process is easily accomplished when everything, including the mixing bowl is at room temperature. First, thoroughly whip the eggs with the other ingredients before adding the oil. Now we are ready to force the eggs to absorb the oil. To make perfect mayonnaise every time, beat the egg mixture continuously while slowly adding the oil to it. Some recipes suggest dripping the oil into the egg mixture; I have been very successful making mayonnaise by slowly pouring the oil into the egg mixture in a very thin stream, rather than drops. A low speed food processor can be used to add the oil into the egg mixture. I prefer the control of a hand mixer that enables me to manually move the mixers around in the bowl. The same care needs to be taken when adding the oil to the egg mixture with either blending tool. Combining the oil into the egg mixture does not take more than ten minutes. Once you have mastered the technique, scrumptious, creamy mayonnaise is only minutes away. Now let us make the sauce mayonnaise.

Ingredients

Basic Egg Mixture:
     1 large whole egg
     1 large egg yoke
     1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar or 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar (creates a unique flavor for sauce mayonnaise)
     1 tablespoon fresh squeezed lemon juice or for a zestier version use 1 tablespoon of fresh squeezed lime juice.
     ¼ to ½ teaspoon of salt depending on taste

Vegetable Oil:
     1 cup inexpensive olive oil (using an extra, extra virgin or a very flavorful olive oil overpowers the sauce mayonnaise). For a lighter version use, ½ cup of Canola Oil in place of olive oil with 2 egg yokes instead of the “1 whole egg and 1 egg yoke” noted in the above egg mixture.

     Combine all the ingredients, except the oil, into a mixing box and beat for about 30 seconds. Then, very slowly add the oil to the egg mixture while blending all the ingredients with a hand mixer until all the oil is completely absorbed into the egg mixture. Important, do not stop pouring the oil until it is finished. Otherwise the oil can separate from the egg mixture.

Congratulations, you have just made fresh sauce mayonnaise!

     Always promptly refrigerate the mayonnaise after using (remember this is made with raw eggs, although it does not taste it). The sauce will stay refrigerated for about five days but we normally do not have much left over for that many days.

Serving Suggestions
     Now that you have mastered this basic recipe the variations are endless. Try adding a clove of crushed garlic to the sauce and refrigerate it overnight. As a dip, with garlic it adds a zesty flavor that will rejuvenate the taste of cold shrimp or raw vegetables. Also try mixing in about a teaspoon or more of Dijon mustard to the sauce to serve with cold, leftover chicken. Our fresh mayonnaise will also make tastier tuna and chicken salads.
     For the small price of two eggs, one tablespoon each of the vinegar and lemon or lime juice, one cup olive oil or one half cup canola oil plus ten minutes of our time we can enjoy fresh, not processed mayonnaise anytime.

Savor the food and relish the savings!

The Prostitute’s Sauce — “Puttanesca”

This is one of my favorite pasta sauces. It is mildly piquant, succulent and cooks in less than thirty minutes. I am not always sure if my esteem for this sauce is based entirely on its pungent flavors or for its “saucy” lineage. Moreover, making a sauce with the past that this one has, brings out a cheeky part of me that is fun to revisit.

The name Puttanesca comes from the Italian word Puttana—which means whore. There are many tales of how this recipe came into being. This is the version that was told to me by my good friend Julio Piccole, over a bowl of Pasta Puttanesca, in an Italian Restaurant in New York City many years ago.

Late one night in Naples Italy, a popular, local trattoria was in the process of closing down for the evening. The owner, the only person left in the trattoria, heard tapping on the kitchen door leading to the back alley. To his surprise, he found standing in the doorway, two beautiful, sultry women. Their raven colored hair shimmered in the moonlight. Each of their faces beamed with imploring, dark eyes, set against silky smooth, olive toned skin. He was taken aback by their loveliness and was no match for this chance encounter.

Composing himself, he recognized them as two of the prostitutes that frequented the area. They politely apologized for their untimely appearance at his trattoria but they were tired and very hungry and would happily pay for a meal, if he would be kind enough to accommodate them. Being a gentleman and not wanting to be discourteous or turn away paying customers, he graciously seated them and proceeded to explain that the kitchen staff had left but he would be happy to put together something for them.
Hurrying back to the kitchen in somewhat of a frenzied state, he was in a quandary as to what he could serve them. He knew his task would not be an easy one. This night’s dinner business had been one of his busiest and as luck would have it everything was gone. Not a thin slice of veal remained or a piece of chicken, not a filet of fish, or even one measly sausage— nothing! There was of course enough pasta but not one spoonful was left of his wonderful marinara sauce that simmers for hours, full of tomatoes, herbs and spices. He scoured the kitchen from top to bottom; searching everywhere, looking for something to make a sauce that would please the two beautiful women who were waiting to eat. This is the sauce he made.

Puttanesca Sauce

Ingredients:

¼ cup of extra virgin olive oil
2-3 cloves fresh garlic, chopped, sliced or minced to personal preference
4 large of 6 medium sized fresh Roma tomatoes, chopped into 4 to 6 pieces depending on their size.
1 tablespoon capers
2 tablespoons pitted, slice black olives or black Gaeta olives if available
One 2oz can of anchovy filets in olive oil (prefer Trader Joe’s brand)
Salt
This recipe serves 2 people; for 4 to 6 servings double the ingredients.

In a large fry pan heat the olive oil, and then reduce the flame and sauté the chopped garlic for 2 minutes or until it is tender, taking care not to brown the garlic pieces. Now add the chopped tomatoes. Cooked the tomatoes for 2 to 3 minutes or until they start to soften and add the capers, olives and anchovies, including the olive oil from its can.
Simmer this mélange, uncovered, on a low flame, for about 20 minutes. In this short period of time the anchovies will dissolve and all the flavors will coalesce, creating an intriguing and memorable pasta sauce. As a note, I do not bother peeling the tomatoes for this sauce; the tiny bits of skin that remain add a touch more flavor to the sauce.
If more cooking liquid is needed add some white wine instead of water or try some of the white vermouth that we all seem have sitting in our liquor cabinet, waiting for those martinis we never seem to make. Salt to taste a minute or two before the sauce is finished cooking but not before; this ensures that all the flavors are released and we will not add any unnecessary salt.

That is the story of the pasta sauce called “Puttanesca” as it was told to me. It is a quick, easy to make, savory sauce that adds zest and panache to an ordinary bowl of pasta.

Serve Puttanesca Sauce over any type of pasta and sprinkle it generously with freshly grated parmesan cheese and chopped fresh parsley. Add a crusty loaf of bread, a glass of Sangiovese or Chianti with Pasta Puttanesca and we have a meal worthy of our trattoria in Naples Italy and the two beautiful women who inspired the recipe.

Enjoy!

Savoring Tapas at Home

For those of us who love food and we who also love a variety of mouth watering tastes from many different dishes, Tapas is a fantasy come true. There are few sights that are more pleasurable than a bar or table covered with a copious assortment of plates, filled with lip-smacking good food to choose from. Will it be the dish of tiny brown meatballs or the thick slices of the lean, spicy sausage nestled on small squares of bread or maybe the wafer thin crackers topped with fresh slivers of silver-skinned herring or is it going to be the small plate of russet colored mushrooms sitting in garlic sauce that we choose? Our Tapas choices are abundant and tantalizing.

“Tapas”, is the distinctive practice of Spanish bars serving small plates of their savory house specialties or finger food. Invariably, locals and tourists alike gather throughout the day in their favorite Tasca (as these bars are called) to eat and drink and sometimes debate politics or simply enjoy the company of others. Maybe it is the combination of food and drink in Tascas or their relaxed atmospheres that invites lively conversations between total strangers; whichever it is, they are as much a social experience as they are havens for food lovers.

One of my favorite Tasca’s in Barcelona is self-service, offering anywhere from 50 to 80 (I never counted just how many there actually are) varieties of finger food lining its two- tiered counter top. It is a bustling place, with tables inside and out that are always teeming with locals and tourists. Long trays filled with small plates of food, each with delectable morsels pierced with a tooth pick, are constantly replenished with fresh ones and there is never a lack of variety to choose from. The cost of the meal is tallied by the beverage servers, who add up the toothpicks from the empty plates on the table, the long ones are more money than the short ones. Other Tascas are closer to what we know of as “traditional bars”, with small plates of food lining the back portion of the bar and served by the bartender. Whatever kind of Tasca it may be, they are always a fun place to eat and mingle or simply be with other people.

It might be more romantic to just fly off to Spain to experience the many different foods of Tapas, but it is not necessary. We can easily recreate the casual atmosphere of eating “Tapas-style” right here in our own homes. There are no rules for Tapas. The food is whatever we want it to be. It can be finger-food or small servings of savory fare or a combination of the two; simple or sophisticated, the choice is ours. Economically, Tapas is also an ideal way to stretch the food budget by serving leftovers along with freshly made dishes as part of a Tapas-style meal or snack. This month, surprise your friends and delight your family with a “Tapas-styled” meal accompanied by a pitcher of homemade, fruity Sangria or an elegant glass of dry Fino styled Sherry.
Here are four easy to make recipes that can be enjoyed Tapas-style in small portions.

Potato Vegetable Salad
Ingredients:
4 medium potatoes, peeled, boiled and diced
¼ cup cooked and diced carrots
¼ cupped cooked peas, fresh or frozen
2 tablespoon of olive oil
1 tablespoon of vinegar
Salt and pepper to taste
Pinch of sugar
¾ cup of mayonnaise, homemade preferred.
1 clove of garlic, crushed
Combine the potatoes, carrots and peas in a bowl. In a separate bowl mix together the oil, vinegar, salt, pepper and sugar together. Gently fold this liquid mixture into the bowl of potatoes and vegetables. Let this sit for several hours, allowing the potatoes and vegetables to meld with the liquid mixture. Then add the mayonnaise and crushed garlic to the bowl and refrigerate for at least one hour or until ready to use. This dish is best served at room temperature.

Pork Balls
Ingredients:
¼ pound ground pork
2 tablespoons beaten egg
¼ cup plain breadcrumbs
1 tablespoon minced parsley
8 blanched almonds, ground
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Salt to taste
¼ cup olive oil or enough to generously coat fry pan
Mix all the ingredients together except the lemon juice and shape into small balls that are less than one inch. Then dip the balls into the lemon juice and fry until golden brown. This dish can be served warm or at room temperature.

Mushrooms and Garlic Sauce
Ingredients:
3 cloves minced garlic
3 tablespoons olive oil
1½ tablespoons flour
1 cup beef broth
½ dried red chili pepper cut into 3 pieces, seeds removed
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
½ pound mushrooms, halved or whole
Heat the garlic in 2 of the 3 tablespoons of olive oil until tender but not brown. Remove from the heat and sprinkle in the flour while constantly stirring the oil and flour. Then gradually stir in the beef broth (the broth should be warm to room temperature but not cold). Then add the chili pepper slices, 1 tablespoon of parsley and lemon juice and stir until smooth. In a separate fry pan sauté the mushrooms in the remaining tablespoon of olive oil until brown and tender but not soft. Combine the mushrooms into the garlic sauce and simmer for about 5 minutes and serve. Garnish the plate with the remaining parsley.

Marinated Chickpeas
(Prepare one day in advance)
Ingredients:
2 cups cooked chickpeas
1 hard boiled egg yoke
4 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon minced onion
1 glove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 tablespoon small capers
Pass the egg yoke through a sieve into a mixing bowl. Beat the oil and vinegar with a wire whisk, add to the egg yoke and stir in the onion, garlic, parsley, capers and chickpeas. Refrigerate overnight and garnish with additional chopped parsley before serving at room temperature.

The fun of Tapas is eating small amounts of food from a large selection and going back for more and more. This month break the mold and bring a taste of Spain into your home with Tapas. Fill a table with these dishes, or your own recipes, along with a stack of small serving plates, add a pitcher of sangria with lots of fresh oranges and apples or a bottle of dry Fino styled Sherry, or both, and enjoy a breadth of Spain in your home.

Anyone wishing a Sangria recipe is welcome to contact me at bernardberlin@q.com

Enjoy!