Monday, November 1, 2010

A Wet Glass

“Stand up wherever you are, go to the nearest window and yell as loud as you can…”   Howard Beale (Peter Finch) in the motion picture Network

Never, in my wildest imagination did I ever anticipate writing about nightmarish restaurant experiences in this space devoted to the pleasures of food. Unfortunately, the time has come to stand up and shout, “I’m mad as hell, and I am not going to take it anymore.”

Over time, my expectations of the quality of food and service from the restaurants here in Southern Arizona have diminished to the point where I am pleased with merely “edible and adequate.” Most of the restaurants that I have tried in Southern Arizona have what I call a tourist mentality. They depend on the annual influx of temporary or one-time customers, such as part-time residents and tourists who change year after year. In other parts of the country, less dependent on “visitors” for their survival the restaurant’s emphasis is on building repeat customers all year long. When a tourist is displeased with the food or service in a restaurant, a different one will replace them next season. Conversely, a full-time resident is not likely to return after having several bad experiences. This is not a condemnation of our “snowbirds” or tourists; the area depends on them for its livelihood. It is, however, the business mentality of most of our restaurateurs, who rely upon a revolving door of one-time customers rather than building repeat business from full-time residents with quality food and service.

As a full-time resident in tourist areas such as Scottsdale and now south of Tucson, I have adjusted accordingly by ordering the most basic dishes on the menu, believing that any kitchen can produce a decent steak or hamburger. Regrettably, this has not always held true. I have also abandoned the notion of a drinkable glass of wine with my food since most of our area restaurants serve wine by the glass from bottles left opened for too many days or from ones that were never properly resealed. As a result, I found myself paying as much as twelve dollars for a glass of “swill” posing as wine. Having quietly endured this onslaught on my senses, the lack of anything resembling reasonable service has pushed me over the edge of silent acquiescence.

Recently, my wife Linda and I joined some friends for cocktails at a bar/restaurant in an upscale senior citizen community in Green Valley. We ordered our usual Dewar’s on rocks and our friends ordered two, ten-dollar glasses of wine. To my horror, one of the glasses of wine they were served was noticeably wet, inside and out. Adding to my chagrin, when I walked up to the bar asking for a dry glass, I received a “what’s wrong with this glass look” from the bartender. I was stunned. Obviously, the bartender did not see anything wrong with pouring wine into a wet glass and the server thought nothing of serving it that way. This act goes beyond the scope of my understanding. How can someone, who earns their living serving in a restaurant or bar, not know something as basic as—never serve wine in a wet glass!

The blame for this inexplicable act doe not lie with the bartender or the server alone. Management has a responsibility to ensure that their staff has, at the very least, a modicum of knowledge of what constitutes proper service. Patiently tolerating inexperienced wait staff is an unpleasant fact of dining-out in most restaurants in Arizona. Tolerating restaurant owners who do not know enough about the most basic aspects of service or care enough to educate their staff is unacceptable. Good food alone does not make for a pleasant dining experience, as good service does not excuse bad food. The combination of good food and proper service is what justifies the prices restaurants charge, not one without the other.

..........“I’m mad as hell, and I am not going to take it anymore!”